Retrofitting a bike with a battery & converting it to an e-bike: is that possible?

E-bikes have been very popular for a long time – but they are not cheap. For most bikes – even cheap ones – you still pay well over 1,000 euros. With a view to your own bike, the question arises: Can’t you convert it to an e-bike? In this guide you can find out whether you can simply retrofit an electric drive including the battery and what you have to consider when doing so.

Electric bicycle drive: The guidelines of the StVZO

In order for you to be able to use your bike on public roads after the conversion, you must have some comply with guidelinesin the Section 63a of the Road Traffic Licensing Regulations (StVZO) are defined:

• The engine power may maximum 250 watts rated continuous power be. This is the power that an engine can sustain for a maximum of 30 minutes.
• The motor support must be at a speed of 25 km/h switch off automatically. Of course, you can also drive faster with muscle power.
• It is also important that the motor support only works when you are actually pedaling. A throttle grip is not allowed.

If your e-bike does not meet these requirements, for example because it is too fast due to a more powerful motor, it may be considered an S-Pedelec or even a moped. Since the Licensing and insurance requirements differs from ordinary pedelecs, you may get into trouble during an inspection.

If the bike drives more than 25 kilometers per hour, it is considered a moped or scooter. Then you need an operating license and an insurance number plate. Over 45 km/h it is even officially a motorcycle. Then you even need one Approval and an official number plate. In both cases you need an individual approval from the TÜV (ebike-solutions.com).

Electric motors for bicycles: the right components for the conversion

To ensure that your bike still works properly after the modification, you should make sure that you use reliable components. Before you buy, however, you should be aware that your bike may not necessarily be suitable for the additional load. You should therefore be careful with particularly rickety specimens, because your safety is at stake. Make sure you have the right tire size for your bike.

Front engines: let them pull you to your destination

The front engine is usually not only the cheapest option when retrofitting, the Effort for the conversion is comparatively low. You don’t have to touch the gears or the bottom bracket. Only the driving dynamics suffer a bit from the heavier front end – you should be careful on uneven ground and gravel so that the tires don’t slip away from you. The front motor is best suited for beginners due to the relatively low price point. Inexpensive conversion kits are available from as little as 300 euros.

Mid-engines: Balanced power

The mid-engine delivers the most power – but it is Installation associated with the most effort and partly only recommended for experienced hobbyists. After all, you have to remove the bottom bracket to replace it with the new one with a motor. Another big advantage: the center of gravity of the bike remains wonderfully central. The handling therefore remains intuitive. Skilled craftsmen with bigger wallets will be most happy with the mid-engine.

Rear engines: The power is not enough for drifting

Rear wheel motors are compared to mid motors easier to build. Like some front engines, the right model can use recuperation to charge the battery with energy generated by the engine brake. Starting off works more quickly than with the front engine, but due to the poorly placed center of gravity, this type of engine also tends to slip. Interested parties should expect upwards of around 400 euros (source: techstage.de).

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