Wild camping in Norway: tips for a breathtaking holiday with a motorhome

“Before we drove to Norway, we focused on two things: the weather can be quite disappointing and everything is super expensive. So we filled the camper with cans of soup and pasta, pita bread and veggie burgers – that already saved a lot of money. And once in Norway, the weather forecast determined our route; with rain we drove on towards the sun. If we were in a mood anyway, then so be it.

“It couldn’t be more beautiful!”

We had heard from people beforehand that Norway is breathtakingly beautiful. Every time you exclaim that it couldn’t get any better, you turn a corner and have to adjust that statement again. That’s exactly what we’ve been through time and time again. When I arrived by boat in Kristiansand, I was already amazed by the typical Norwegian wine-red and white houses. That evening we slept there near a harbor, with a view over those beautiful coves.

At the second campsite, Vågan in Hauge i Dalane, we stood between the rocks. It was blowing very hard there, but if you walked up, between the cliffs, you came to a Viking grave where it suddenly became windless, with a panoramic view of the sea. On the other side you saw huge rock formations with houses and villages in between.

Magical moments

One of the most special places I found at the fjords of Olden. I was looking for a campsite in that area, when I suddenly saw that there was also a campsite at the foot of a glacier. We had to go there, I thought. Once there, my expectations were more than met. The campsite was against a mountain, a river of meltwater flowed through it. You had a view of two glaciers and several waterfalls. The camping spots were located between the boulders, a yoga studio had also been built there. There was a fireplace where you could play games, saunas in the bathroom, the people were warm.

We immediately decided to stay longer, so that I could take a yoga class. But first, walk into that beautiful area, directly from the campsite. It was a tough climb, but Bo did it singing. From that mountain we had an even better view of the Briksdalsbreen glacier. Once downstairs we had to eat quickly to be on time for class. I sat there in lotus position, in a glass building with a view of that beautiful nature. Night fell, I looked out at the stars. Truly a magical moment.

“A yoga class with a view of glaciers and waterfalls, that was a magical moment.”

everything was possible

For the first few weeks we had more or less figured out what we wanted to see: we visited the city of Bergen, where we walked around a bit and ate a typical Norwegian viskekaken, fish burger. We visited Geiranger Bay, which is normally full of cruise ships, but where we could now sail through with a motorboat. And we drove down Trollstigen, the troll route. After two weeks, that list was finished and all options were suddenly open. Everything was possible, and I silently hoped that I would finally meet a moose, that seemed great.

Read also
To Norway in winter? These are the best tips for you and your family >

wild camping

We decided to drive back slowly, stopping haphazardly along the way at the spots that appealed to us. That worked well. We were once on our way to Hardangervidda National Park until we saw Oslo on a sign. Hop, turn around, that way. Of course we couldn’t ignore the town of Bø for our Bo either.

“One of the main goals of this vacation: really camping in the wild.”

And when I saw a nice spot from the road in a flash on one of the last days, we turned around. Because that had been one of the main goals of this vacation: really camping in the wild. We had even bought an ax in advance so that we could cut wood for a fire. That spot on the road at Byglandsfjorden turned out to be the most beautiful of the holiday. It was on a small beach, where we started the day with careful paddling and eventually went skinnydipping with the three of us – no one could see us.

Several countries in one

Norway is actually several countries in one. One time it felt like Great Britain, with all that wild nature. Another time, at Åkrasanden, we imagined ourselves on Bonaire, with snow-white beaches and bright blue water. Rondane National Park was like a tundra, complete with cooler temperatures and the feeling that a cowboy might be around the corner at any moment. And the port of Kristiansand, where we stood between the boats at 26 degrees, was just like the Côte d’Azur. Although we really saw a lot, we will definitely go back again. Hiking even more, admiring even more nature. We are far from done with Norway. And I still need to see that moose.”

“Norway is so many countries in one: from the English countryside to the beaches of Bonaire.”

To do

blinding
The Oldeskaret walk starts from the Melkevoll Bretun campsite. You have a beautiful view of a glacier along the way.
visitnorway.com, search Oldeskaret

Beautiful
In Oslo we had a picnic in Vigeland Park with no less than 212 statues. The trendy Grünerløkka district is also worth a visit.

In the tram
Bergen is a nice city to stroll through. You can also take the Fløibanen, a kind of tram, uphill.
floyen.no

Errand
In the Glacier Museum in Fjærland you will get an explanation about the oldest glacier in Europe and how we should preserve the glacier.
bre.museum.no

To sleep

Recommendations
We found all wild camping spots using the Park4Night app. Users themselves place locations that they have found.
park4night.com

Rent a boat
The nice thing about camping Geirangerfjorden Feriesenter is that you can rent a boat and discover the fjord from the water.
geirangerfjorden.net/en

Star campsite
The beautiful campsite by the glaciers is called Camping Melkevoll Bretun. Be sure to take a yoga class here with views of the glacier, waterfalls and stars.
milkevoll.com

Food

smart eating
Food and drink in Norway is very pricey. We only bought fresh things and didn’t eat out. Wild blueberries can be found everywhere, you can pick them yourself. Strawberries are often offered on the side of the road, next to a small change tray.

From the region
We did eat some typical Norwegian dishes, such as a fish burger at the fish market in Bergen and svele with jam, which are Norwegian cake-like pancakes. The kanelbullar (cinnamon rolls) are also worth a try, especially at Gudbrandsjuvet Café in Valldal.
gudbrandsjuvet-cafe.business.site

hip tent
In Oslo you can also enjoy delicious food at Vippa, a large food court in the harbor at the Oslo fjord.
vippa.no

Find more camping adventures from Maureen on Instagram @vantastic.memories

This article appears in Kek Mama 14-2021.

More travel stories? Follow us on facebook.