To Lapland with a toddler: time for the northern lights, reindeer and lots of snow

“Of course we sometimes go to France, but we much prefer to travel north. We just really love the snow, nature, the northern lights. And the type of people you find there. People who also love the winter outdoors. They don’t care what the weather is like; they always go out. So are we, although we had to adjust our expectations for this trip.

We couldn’t go on husky rides or endlessly ski down the slopes, because there are now three of us. That is why we chose Finnish Lapland, where the two of us had been before. There aren’t many mountains there, but there are that wintry environment that we love so much. We therefore set ourselves up for a relaxed week in which we would mainly maintain the pace of Jonas.

Cozy

We had booked an apartment in Enontekiö, a small town near Hetta. Our hotel was the only one in the area, so it was not very touristy. You also noticed this from the staff and the people in the shops: everyone was happy that you were there, you were always received very hospitably. Because although the Finns are generally quite introverted, they also like to make it cozy for you.

We were lucky: according to the people of the village, an exceptionally large amount of snow had fallen during that period. Everywhere we looked it was white. What stood out were the beautiful shapes the trees made under that pack of snow; they leaned all the way over, it was that heavy. And when we were on top of a mountain, the views were beautiful; I could keep staring and staring.

“The views were beautiful; I could keep staring and staring.”

We couldn’t enjoy it very long because of the cold. Once we went for a walk of an hour, but that turned out to be too long for Jonas. We sprinted down the mountain, with Jonas crying from the cold in the backpack. It was sometimes -31 degrees at night, often -15 during the day. And so we stuck to short walks afterwards, or a game of football in the snow. And of course always with lots of clothes on. I was glad that Jonas was still wearing diapers: I didn’t want to think about having to completely undress him all the time.

Food

We had breakfast in the hotel, which was always quite common with a northern specialty here and there, such as pickled herring and kalakukko, bread filled with fish. After that we usually walked to the village together, with Jonas in the sled. There we warmed up again in a coffee shop that we had discovered by accident. It was in a nature museum and was remarkably hip for that area. There was a play corner for Jonas, and we could have a delicious coffee or a beer.

In the evening we returned to the hotel, where we were always served something with reindeer: hash, carpaccio or steak. And of course a lot of fish, vegetables and all kinds of berries, in terms of taste actually quite similar to Dutch cuisine.

northern Lights

During the day we always checked the app for the northern lights. We could then see if it would be visible nearby and if so, at what time. Many evenings, when Jonas was in bed, we put on all our snow gear again and went out onto the frozen lake in front of the hotel with our tripod and baby monitor. And then just wait, wait a long time, and hope it comes.

Sometimes it was there as early as nine o’clock, other times it didn’t show up until around half past eleven. We also sometimes walked back because it took too long and our toes were frozen. But when the light finally shows itself, that remains something unique – even if we have already been able to admire it a number of times. After all that waiting, there is euphoria: it worked. The light is very mobile and is right above you. You look at it and think: how is this possible, what is happening here?

“We were there with the two of us on the lake, really enjoying it.”

We were even lucky one evening that not only the green, but also the red, pink and blue light showed up. That moment was very special. The two of us were standing there on the lake, with a cup of coffee to keep us warm, really enjoying ourselves: we’ll take this with us.

moments of happiness

Of course, sometimes I was a bit disappointed when I saw other hotel guests getting on snowmobiles or taking a bus. But in the end I am especially proud of Jonas, how well he did all week. Of course he was sometimes quite cold and we thought: what kind of parents are we that we do this to him. But he loved his pink and blue sled and his green ball that he always had to take with him – he still talks about it.

“Sometimes I thought: what are we doing to Jonas? But he also enjoyed it.”

And when we walked towards that coffee shop, I could see from him that he knew what awaited him, which toys he could play with there again. Those kinds of moments are the ultimate moments of happiness of a holiday. Those huskies and snowmobiles will come later.”

To do

A must
You cannot experience more nature than with a husky tour, which also includes a lunch in the middle of nowhereprepared over a fire.
hettahuskies.com

cuddly
Reindeer are by no means rare in Lapland, but you should take the time (and silence!) to spot them in the wild. That doesn’t always work with small children. At a reindeer farm, Jonas could also see, pet and feed them.
hettahuskies.com/en/activities/winter-activities-in-hetta/reindeer-farm-visit

Aurora
If you want to see the Northern Lights, check with the app ‘My aurora forecast’ when and where they will show up. Wear lots of layers, provide hand and foot warmers, and make sure your camera is set up and set up properly.

To sleep

Own place
We stayed in an apartment of Lapland Hotels Hetta, with its own kitchen and two bedrooms. Although not with the same view as in the hotel, which has a beautiful view of the frozen lake, but very pleasant for a family.
laplandhotels.com

All comfort
Explore The North in Särkimukka, Kangos, Sweden is a beautiful small-scale accommodation with hotel rooms and chalets. You can do all excursions from the accommodation. And then there is also a nice sauna and hot tub, and many northern lights moments.
explorethenorth.se

Food

Finnish bolus
In Finland they are also really fond of sweet snacks. Cinnamon dumplings, a local delicacy, are very tasty – they’re called korvapuusti. They are somewhat similar to Zeeland boluses. You can find them at the coffee shop that is located at the nature museum in Enontekiö.
kahvilapeura.fi

reindeer hash
The restaurant of the hotel where we stayed is also open to non-guests. At least try some reindeer. It is soft and lean and not at all comparable to deer. In the hotel it was presented in all kinds of forms: as hash, carpaccio and as cold cuts.
laplandhotels.com/EN/hotels-in-lapland/hetta/lapland-hotels-hetta/restaurants.html

This article can be found in Kek Mama 01-2022.

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